Book review: Traditional Jewelry of India
Oppi Untract


• Paperback: 432 pages
• Publisher: Thames & Hudson; illustrated edition (September 22, 2008)


The jewelry-making traditions of India are ancient and still practiced in their ancient forms today. Indian jewelry is some of the most complex and beautiful in the world.


In Traditional Jewelry of India, Oppi Untract has done an exemplary job of showing the extraordinary range of body adornments in the sub-continent, from tribal shell jewelry to fine Mughal gold and ruby work. The book is broken up into sections explaining the different types of jewelry worn, including religious/temple jewelry, adornments for the gods in family shrines, wedding jewelry, and more. The symbols specific to various gods and religions are discussed in detail and where possible, examples of a type of jewelry from one Indian state is compared with similar objects from other areas.


The majority of the illustrations in the book are high-quality black and white photographs that show the detail of the fine work. There are many full-color plates, however, that makes this book a real joy to page through. My brain was exploding with possibilities and design ideas after my first perusal. I dreamed jewelry last night. It was beautiful.


I was particularly intrigued by the few representations of wire-wrap work and coiling. Seeing old pieces of jewelry that use the same techniques as pieces being created by members of this site today gave me a wonderful feeling of carrying on, and being a part of, a fine old human tradition.


A good deal of the jewelry discussed and pictured in this book are forms that we don’t use in the West – hand covers, toe rings and bells, spiral earrings that wind into a series of holes in the upper ears, gorgeous dangling hair ornaments and braid covers; interesting jewelry that suggested new and interesting forms for my own work. I do believe, however, that reproducing some of the nose-plugs of the tribal areas will probably not go over too well in Berkeley and should probably be avoided.


One of the most wonderful aspects of this book is that it describes in detail the methods of jewelry making for many of the traditional styles, including how seed beads are made by hand, lac bangles, and kundan gold-work. In some instances, photographs of each step are provided. I was relieved to see that even if civilization as we know it collapses, I’ll still be able to get my bead fix, even if I have to make them myself with the ancient techniques.


This book is a must-have for anyone interested in jewelry history, or those who like to use art books for inspiration.


Avoid the hardcover; it’s six to eight times the cost of the paperback, which can be obtained on Amazon.