TUTORIAL:

I would really appreciate if you leave me some feedback privately (by sending me a message) or just here (by adding the comment) concerning this tutorial. It will help me to make better tutorials in the future! Thank you! :)
Lucy

I particularly love this design...
-Eni
www.jewelrylessons.com

Lucy, These are beautiful and I can' wait until I get my soldering station set up so I can try them!

Dawn

http://www.dawnebryantdesigns.etsy.com
http://www.sandhillsemporium.etsy.com
http://www.dawnebryantdesigns.artfire.com
http://www.dawnebryant.com
http://www.finestofnebraska.com
http://dawnebryant-jewelryonmymind.blogspot.com/

I even want to try soldering to make these sweet pieces.
-Eni
www.jewelrylessons.com

Thank you all so much! You can`t imagine how much you all inspire me! :)

A very nice tutorial with clear photos and instructions. I love your blossom design Lucy and I'm going to make myself some cuff links with the blossoms. I'll just solder a half loop to the backs instead of the ear wire. I'll post some pictures as soon as they're done. Thanks for sharing your tutorial!

Stacy :)
http://www.hodgepodgerie.com

Lucy, I really should not poke my nose in here, as I have not purchased the tutorial. I actually don't need to, as I can figure out how to make the pieces. But you asked for comments, so here goes. First though, a caveat. Since I can't read the content, it is possible that my questions and comments about your tutorial will already be addressed in the tutorial. Beginning with the piercing saw, what size saw blade did you use, as no recommendation is given. Pendant motor. That could cause someone some confusion. Suggest that you use Flex-Shaft in place of pendant motor. Flex-shaft can be more than one type, i.e. Dremel. Grinding wheel. There are many, many types available to a jewelry maker. Perhaps your photos would clear this up, but may not indicate the grit. Wood doming block and punch. Would not a metal one work? Of course, if there is texturing on a metal piece, users of metal blocks and punches would need to use some protection to preserve the surface, such as thin leather scrap. Again the type of doming block would probably be easily determined from photos. Engraver. Again, there are different gravers, so point specification would be helpful. Hammer. The photos probably tell all, but again specifying the type used in the tool list would give a prospective buyer of the tutorial better grasp on what is needed. Cup bur. Size? And lastly, the polishing compound. Rouge, Tripoli, Fabuluster, there's bunch of different compounds. Oh, what about protecting the surface? Is that mentioned? In spite of my crabbing at you, your tutorial is probably just fine. I"m probably going to get a load of grief from other about this. John

John, thank you for your feedback! I understand that these are important specifications, I would try to fix them.
Actually this tutorial has ADVANCED level and I thought that describing such as what number of saw blades should you use, should advanced masters know. It was also dedicated to the masters who can handle most basic techniques and tools. That was my idea..
Lucy

Lucy. I quite understand your point of view. What I was thinking, was that a less advanced artist would be interested in trying out your tutorial as a part of their learning process. You do say in your description it is suitable for beginners with basic skills. That is an excellent bit of encouragement. Not everyone has the advantage of taking classes, or to be personally mentored. I think it is important for tutorials to be as flexible as possible in methodology and offer alternative ways of accomplishing a particular task. Sometimes, of course, that is not possible. I am continually puzzled and amused by the fixation developed by some authors on what tool, or method, MUST be used when it is so obvious that another will do just fine. Anyway, I am sure from reading the comments of others, your tutorial is just fine. Keep up the good work. John

Well, I don't know about a load of grief, you did bring up some good points, but as I did purchase the tutorial all I can say John, is "ouch!" Since you admitted to not purchasing the tutorial I found some of your comments to be a bit harsh or not necessary had you read the tut. Many of the your points are explained by Lucy in the body of the tutorial or are obvious by the photos. I agree with you that with a few minor changes, the tutorial would be easily read and successfully accomplished by newbies to silversmithing.


I too, can figure out how to make the item sans tutorial. However as I'm self taught (excluding my fine jewelry bench training), I've been enjoying seeing how others go about creating things. The instructions show a wooden cube being used and I don't know about your cubes, but the dimples in my steel and bronze cubes are deeper than the dimples in my wooden ones. Hence, the gentler dome achieved when using the wooden one. And as you know, when using a wooden cube it's not necessary to line the dimple with leather because the pattern won't get damaged like steel-to-steel will do. Lucy does specify the wooden dapping cube and dap, so the whole steel thingy is a non-issue. Perhaps to help those at a lesser skill level, the dapping block thing could be clarified in the tutorial itself. Again, advanced folks would know.


While I don't see the metal work in the tutorial as advanced, it is written assuming that the reader has at least a basic grasp of soldering and metal work AND with that in mind, it is very easy to follow. I thought the flowers were really cute and wanted to make some cuff links with them, but I hardly think it would be fair or supportive to Lucy to post them without at least purchasing her tutorial.


Lucy's tut measurements are given in both Imperial (US) and metric measurements, which I think is a wonderful thing as JL attracts an International audience. A good point John about the saw blade size. While those of us who use our saws on a regular basis can tell by the gauge of metal and the work being done, many others would appreciate what the author found to work well. It appears that Lucy uses a dremel, but I prefer my flex-shaft so I would use it. She does recommend the grit of sandpaper to be used whether one is using a power tool or going about it by hand. She does give several options there. Personally, I hate those cup burs as I don't like the finish one gets on the earwire ends, so I opt for a file and sandpaper and a good tumble or polishing at the polish wheel. Like you said, there are many tools available to get the job done.


Just some more input that is hopefully taken in the positive manner I meant it to be.


Stacy :)
http://www.hodgepodgerie.com

Well, if I was too harsh, then that's too bad. I am not diplomatic, never have been, never will be. And, if anyone cares to read this, I will keep my criticism to myself in the future and I will not comment on anyone's work, whether I like it or not. Also, I will not submit any more of my work to the gallery. In other words, this is goodbye, to JL. John

Guys! I have updated the tutorial and completed it :)

I bought the tutorial, so I guess I have the right to give my opinion. Some of the points discussed by John actually made sense and even if he said he didn't buy the tutorial, he made his review based on the tutorial description; which is actually the 1st thing everybody has to read first before buying a tutorial.

When I bought the tutorial, it didn't say it was advanced, it actually showed intermediate, as it is showing it on this post right now. If I had known that some of the steps are left out or assumed, I would have waited to buy it.

The description encouraged people with medium- soldering skills or as the description says "beginner with basic soldering skills."

I'm a self- taught jewelry maker and I know the basics on soldering and engraving. If I bought the tutorial it was because I wanted to expand my jewelry skill repertoire and because I haven't worked with copper.

I honestly didn't take John's comments as harsh, he was just being honest and trying to give the artist feedback based on the description she herself provided. I actually agreed with some of the points he highlighted and that doesn't mean I was harsh; every feedback provided is always to help the artist to improve his/her future work, as it was showed by the artist in the previous comment here, she herself said she updated the tutorial.

In this business you better develop thick skin, otherwise the opportunities given to improve one's work may be wasted. The artist has showed willingness to hear what others think about her tutorial and she got it. I hope the updated tutorial covers some of the highlighted points.

My 2 cents and I hope this exchange doesn't discourage people from giving their comments/ feedback.

Lucy, I hope you have thick skin and take this as honest feedback; no hurt intended.

Yes, that is true that I have asked for your feedback as I want to make good tutorials. And thank you! I hope that it is not so bad at all. Please also keep in mind that I don`t speak English so good as all you, but I understood all what you have written here. :)
Maybe this point has caused such a trouble.

Wow! And after all of that, ~I'll have to buy the tut. Was going to anyways 'cause I want to know how to do the little balls in the center. (hope it's in there!) I, too, think John had some excellent points as well as the next person. As I haven't looked through this site very well yet, I hope he wasn't serious to leave over such a mild exchange of opinions.

Dear StonePeace, this tutorial describes how to make silver scrap balls, but doesn`t include a picture of it. If you have any question, I´m always glad to help you.